AM8 MGN Far-Out V0.1.0 Power Supply Holder part 1

The first upgrade of my AM8 MGN BLV printer is to move the power supply at the back of the printer.

The initial design is simply holding the power supply at the back of the printer. The integration is also made to integrate the power supply into the housing design. Here is the first initial concept.

The Power supply with the holder from the front.
View from the back with the attachment to the frame.

The holder keep a free distance to the frame of 40 mm as the bed iOS over hanging the frame at the maximum movement position to the back. I designed the holder with hexagon. I like hexagon, they look cool, they make the part pretty stable, save plastic and over the possibility to pass cable through the frame. The only down point is the printing time.

The first part took 6 hours of printing. I am using a 0.4mm nozzle with PETG filament. The extruder was set to 250 °C and the bed at 80 °C. The first layer is printed with 10 mm/s as it seems the adhesion is a problem at higher speed. The rest of the print is done between 50 and 80 mm/s depending on the acceleration,

The printed part during a mounting test at from of the printer

I all, it is not bad, in part 2 of the Power Supply Holder, I print the second vertical holder.

Nunus PETG Filament

After printing for a while with PLA, I decided to go for a filament that is not so difficult as ABS to print and mechanically better as PLA. I decided to go for PETG. I had some good experience with the PLA from Nunus and decided to give the PETG from the same comapny a try.

As always, the filament came quickly and was nicely packed, complete sealed and vaccumed with a trying silicate package. It was nicely rolled and did not make any problems.

The printing of PETG is not easy, it tends to glue nicely on the nozzle. I have found for the Nunus PETG that the best temperature for my E3D V6 with titan Direct Extruder and X Nozzle around 230 to 240 °C. The bed temperature is between 70 and 80°C. I use a UltraBase glass plate and it sticks really nicely at here temperature. Do not go above 80°C, at that point you end up with more PETG on your nozzle than on the building plate… below 240 °C extruder temp, I have nozzle blockage, the filament is cooling off and no longer printing, stay at 240°C or above.

Oozing is an issue, it is fairly liquid and drop a lot from my nozzle. Due to that the retart of a print after a retraction is difficult, a little part of the next path is missing at the beginning. It is a problem if you are trying to get a lot of detail on the building plate.

If you manage to master these challenge, the Nunus PETG is really nice, it gives a really nice surface and the print is nice and constant. Make sure you are not printing too fast. I manage to get good results using 20 mm/s on the first layer and 60 to 100 mm/s after. If you have Klippen like me, make sure you printer has a good setup up acceleration limit ( 400 m/s2 on mine). It limits the print on the small seigments but allow faster move on large one. The PETG from Nunus is following without too many problems and the print is really nice.

In all, the PETG from Nunus is really nice for what I do and keep good accuracy during printing. Generally printing with PETG can be challenging but the the Nunus PETG is performing well.

3D Printer Upgrade

My 3D Printer is great for what I do. The modification to the project AM8 MGN BLV is simply superbe. However my modification is maybe not as good as it could be : the cable rooting is not exactly great, it Alpen to all the dust and have some problem with printing at higher temperature.

The objective of the upgrade is to completely build, at best from printing parts, a housing for the printer. In the process, I want to do a lot of things.
– Put the power supply at the back of the printer
– Put the main board at the back of the printer
– Put the raspberry pi with a camera at the back of the printer and allow the camera to take picture of the print.
– move the Z Axis behind the Z frame. It is not critical but offer more space for the X Axis and it is easier to access the X Axis
– Change the X Axis to have the motor below the 20x20mm, having the belt in front the of X Axis with a belt tensioner easy accessible from the front of the printer
– Move the Y axis at the bottom of the frame to get more space for the Y Carrier. It allows to change the heated bed support ( to put some isolation) and a better table setting.
– Redesign the X Carrier to fit my E3D V6 with direct extruder.
– A complete housing to stop the dust landing on the printer and try to keep the temperature more stable in the printer, allowing to print other material than PLA, for example ABS.
– Some kind of spool holder with a dry box to keep the filament safe.

There is a lot of things to do. I will post the progress step by step and all the files to print the objects. I will also put everything on a Thingiverse project so everyone can access the design.

A lot of things to do ! Let’s go !